This is more of a random article but I was recently doing some research on Roman shoes and I thought I would share it with you.

Materials used to make a Roman shoe:

The most obvious material is leather, particularly leather made of cow hide. And while this is true there are also other materials used to manufacture the shoes. First cow hide was not the only type of leather used, the Romans also used goat and sheep skin though the shoes made with these leathers were reserved for the higher-class people of Rome. The Roman shoemaker also had a variety of tools he used to make shoes, some of them were awls – for punching holes in the leather, several types of knives, and needles made of bone or metal for sewing.

How a Roman shoe was made:

It was typically cut from a piece of leather, and was formed using a forma, which was made from wood and was in the shape of a foot. Since most of the Roman shoes were open on the top Romans typically used leather lace to fasten the shoe onto their feet. The Roman Caligae, which was used by most Roman soldiers, had a slightly distinctive design compared to ordinary Roman shoes. They had a much more open design that allowed for breathability and often prevented blisters as socks were not commonly worn with the Caligae. The Caligae also featured hob nails for traction, typically using from 60 to 120 per shoe.

Interesting facts:

The Roman shoe could communicate many things about the wearer – their occupation, their social status, and much more. Different shoes were used in different climates, adapted to keep the wearer as warm or cool as needed be in that specific climate.

The Common Roman Military shoe:

The shoes of an army are one of the most important yet underrated things about an army. Without proper shoes an army cannot go long distances, and their feet have no protection from any thorns or sharp stones that they may encounter. So, when it comes to marching the caligae had an enormous impact on the Roman army. The Caligae is the standard Roman military shoe, and it is one of the most well-known shoes that Romans made, famous for its hobnailed sole and open-air design. It even became the standard issue between 1 AD and 3 AD. The use of caligae represents the transition of the Roman army to professionalism as it is one of the many things that was standardized.

It did, however, have some drawbacks, most notably on hard surfaces where the hobnails made it easier to slip. There is even one account where a Roman soldier is said to have slipped on the marble floor of a temple due to the hobnails. He was afterwards beaten to death by the occupants of the temple. However, the advantages outweighed the disadvantages though and, in the end, the Caligae was much more known for how light it was as well as its adjustability. In some accounts it is even said that the Romans used the hobnails to their advantage and used them to stomp on their enemies’ feet and others mention that the sound of the Romans’ hobnailed shoes marching along was a huge scare tactic for the Romans.

More into how they were made:

The Caligae was made from thick cow hide, mostly because this could be bought throughout their empire. The leather was tanned using vegetable tanning techniques because they provided supple and robust material. The flat sole was constructed of multiple layers of leather, which were the insole, the middle lamina which was mostly for reinforcement, and the upper sole which provided cushioning and made it easier to walk with heavy loads. The entire flat sole was typically about one centimeter thick. The leather straps used for attaching the caligae to one’s foot usually numbered between 5 and 10 and together they formed the open toed upper structure of the Caligae. The main feature of these straps were the eyelets that allowed the thong to pass through and so secure the entire shoe together. As I have already mentioned the caligae was also famous for its hobnailed sole, designed to give traction on most terrains. Hobnails are domed or flatheaded nails that were typically made from bronze or iron nails and were hammered into certain patterns to help with traction. One of the more common patterns was to have a double row of hobnails along the edge of the sole and a denser configuration on the ball and the heel of the foot. The biggest benefit of the hobnails was that they prevented excessive wear on the leather itself thus making the shoe useful for longer without repairs or replacements.

When it was used:

The Caligae peaked in use between 1 and 3 A.D., the Caligae enabled mass production as the design was simple and cost effective. Plus, the average Roman soldier could walk approximately 29.5 kilometers comfortably with the use of the Caligae. By 3 and 4 AD it was starting to get phased out, especially on frontiers where the weather was damp. In most places boots were now favored over the caligae. On frontiers such as Britain woolen socks known as udones were commonly paired with the caligae and were used to keep the foot insulated from the cold and wet climate. In some places fibers from the udones have even been found next to the caligae, as well as letters mentioning them.

Different shoes and what they were used for:

Here are some of the most common Roman shoes, with a little bit about them and why they were common.

Pero – was worn by agricultural workers and made of soft leather covering the entire foot.

Baxa – light sandals worn inside that were made of palm leaves or twigs. They were cheap and commonly worn by the poorer people of Rome.

Calcei – like modern day sandals, mainly worn indoors, completely covered the foot, and only worn with the toga – making it forbidden to slaves.

Socci – loosely fitting slipper like shoes with no traction, mainly worn indoors, designed for comfort and ease.

How the wealthy differed from the commoners:

Wealthy Romans could get shoes made of finer leather and more expensive materials and could sometimes even get them dyed assorted colors or have them embroidered. The commoners on the other hand would be much less extravagant and typically get the common type of shoe with durable thick leather but not anywhere near as much ornamentation. And the poor would typically go with shoes like Baxa that were made from things like palm leaves or straw. These, though cheap, were not at all durable and thus there is a noticeably significant difference between the shoes of the commoners and the shoes of the poor.

The Carbatinae:

The carbantina – sometimes referred to in its plural form Carbantinae – was a simple though commonly used type of Roman footwear. It was made from cow hide with a seam running up the back, the top was open and it closely resembles the moccasin. It was common among the poorer and less well-off of the Romans. It is influenced by earlier Greek footwear and was used widely across the Roman empire. In fact, the term Carbantina comes from the Greek word Karbatine (with a K). It was used as an indoor or house shoe and was favored because of how easy it was to put on and fix.

~Elowyn A. Archer